HTML5 Canvas Basics
Feb 28, · This tutorial explains about how to create Fire Effect in Flash. I hope you Enjoy watching this Video! This is done using ActionScript (AS ). SUBSCRIBE. May 27, · Click to Subscribe: likedatingus.com to my cartoon channel: likedatingus.com this tutorial I'm going to show you how to create fire anima.
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Create Realistic Fire in Photoshop
In this Adobe Animate / Adobe Flash tutorial, we’ll animate a fire effect starting with nothing but simple vector shapes. We’ll start by creating a looping wave like motion on the left side, then piece by piece add more fragments of looping motion to build the basic one-color fire. From here, we could add a simple glow effect and be done, but to really make this fire come alive, we’ll want to add . Sep 14, · In this tutorial I teach a simple and basic way to animate a fire looped effect. They're many simple techniques, you just have to think outside the box. The. How can you create a great fire effect? Like this! 1. First, create a radial gradient circle object as shown below. 2. Convert this to a graphic object, and name it ‘flame’.
Many photographic techniques, rightfully, tend to focus on polished images. They vary anywhere on the spectrum from getting sharper images to capturing accurate skin tones. These techniques are important. This article will guide you through a fun special effect technique that will allow you to capture multiple exposures in a single frame, using the test button on your strobes or flashguns.
Using this method, you will gain a new tool to add movement, and a sense of action in your studio photography. A smaller aperture will also help to minimize the effect of any ambient light in your images.
With your camera on a tripod, set the dial to manual mode, the ISO to , and your shutter speed to between two and six seconds. To test if your shutter speed is suitable, take a test shot without any flash. As long as the image is completely black at the end of the exposure, it will work for this technique. This time can be changed and extended later, depending on how many movements you want to capture. To start with, try to keep your lighting simple.
A single light source will give you unlimited potential. This technique will work with multiple lights, but it is best to build up to that over time, as you get used to how the technique works. As for lighting placement, the choice is yours. The lighting will, and should, depend on the final intent of the image you are trying to create. That will provide a good starting point to make adjustments from there.
Use a light meter , or manually calculate the exposure, to set your flash output, so it matches your chosen aperture.
Simple lighting set-ups, like this one used in these images, can be the most effective. With everything set up, you need to explain to your subject how to move. In more detail — you want to wait for your subject to adopt the first pose, set the focal point, and start the exposure. Press the test button on your strobe to fire the flash. After this first flash, your subject should move to their second position as quickly as possible, where you will press the test button again.
Repeat as many times as required. The hardest part of this technique is that it is incredibly hit and miss. It takes time and patience. You will need to shoot a lot of frames, and most of them will be unsuitable. Just keeping making as many attempts as you can, until you think you have something, then take some more. By trying to squeeze too much in, you might end up with a cluttered mess in your images.
Start with two or three movements to gauge where things are and build it up from there. Trying to include too many movements may result in a cluttered mess like this image. If you have a remote trigger for your strobes with a manual button on it, you can hold it in your hand and fire the flash. This is much more preferable than having to move between the camera and your light source during each frame. This will allow you to fire the strobe more times in the short timeframe. There is no one way to process images from this technique, and all of that is up to you.
However, if you want crisper, more pronounced outlines of your subject, the clarity slider in Lightroom or Adobe Camera RAW will help a lot. Colored backdrops will overpower images using this technique. For color images, try and stick to a black or grey background. Because your subject is moving to different positions, the background continues to expose once your subject has moved. If you use a colored background, as I did with these images, that color will dominate your exposures.
Of course, this can be used judiciously as a feature of the image should you choose. For example you could use it to capture a hammer at different points in its swing, or perhaps a basketball at different parts of its arc. The choices are endless. Be creative with it, have fun, and if you give it a go please share your images below, as well as any questions you may have.
This is the third of a series of articles we will be featuring this week on dPS all about special effects. Check out the others here:.