How to use a table saw as a jointer

how to use a table saw as a jointer

Using Your Table Saw as a Jointer

Aug 11, Clamp the shop-made fence to the rip fence, centering it on the length of the rip fence. Be sure your saw is unplugged. Make a mark on the fence approximately even with the back of the blade. Make a Relief Cut Just like a jointer, the table saw setup requires an infeed and an outfeed side. The outfeed side must be perfectly even with the saw blade. Oct 11, Turning your table saw into a jointer is simple. It doesnt require modifying the components of your table saw in any way. In fact, all you need to do is construct a jointer jig which pushes your lumber close enough to the saws blade to shave off slivers, giving it beautifully flat and squared edges.

There are plenty of times when you need your boards to have a smooth, straight edge. How to attach railing post to deck jointer?

No sweat. With the help of a simple shop-made jig you can be jointing on the table saw. Even if you own a jointer, jointing on the tables saw is a handy technique to know about. If you ever need to clean up edges on abrasive material like plywood, particle board, plexiglassthe carbide teeth of a saw blade will stand up to it much better than tool steel jointer knives.

The length of the jig determines the length of the pieces you can joint. Pick the right blade. A tooth alternate top bevel blade works great. Slide the jig and fence toward the blade. Mark the position of the back of the blade on the jig. Remove the jig from the rip fence and move the fence to the left side of the blade.

You need to VERY carefully position the fence for the cut in the jig that creates the offset. Be sure your saw is unplugged. Align the right side of the saw blade with the right edge of the jig. With the fence correctly positioned, add a feather board and cut the jig.

The feather board helps a lot. Stop cutting when you get to the pencil mark you made earlier. Turn off the table saw. With the saw unplugged check the offset. With the jig tight to the rip fence the right edge of the saw blade must be perfectly even with the right edge of the jig.

Move the rip fence to the right, slightly, and make another cut. Move the rip fence to the right side of the saw blade. With your saw unplugged, clamp the jig to your rip fence so that the back of the blade aligns with how to keep cavities from getting worse offset. The left side of the saw blade should align with the how to prepare fully cooked ham edge of the jig, and the blade should turn freely.

Adjust the position of what to wear to the ballet rip fence until this is correctly set. Make a test cut. Check the results. Make small changes in the fence position until the sliver goes away, and the blade can spin without touching the jig. Should you sell your jointer? I think not. Thicker than that and the results deteriorate. Click here to cancel reply.

I liked this idea, gable I made one. The only problem was that it only had one depth setting, the kerf of the saw blade. So far it works great. If a thin kerf blade is used, then apx. Hope that makes sense. I was directed here after submitting a question about jointing without a jointer for the live broadcast on March 19, George showed this jig and directed me to jointeer webpage. Why not just buy jointer! Great idea I have struggled with no jointer.

I use the planer the best I can, but it does not work how to write a letter of interest for an internship well as this would. Suggestion: On the first pass t cutting the jig, do not take a full kerf cut.

Turn on the saw and raise the blade. Take multiple passes if needed. I think the thinner cut would also result in less blade deflection. Did you move the melamine sideways into the blade.

It will be important to communicate this. If you cut the jig all the way through the blade, you are back to sq 1 too no offset. Photos in the article demonstrate how this is done.

You move the fence to the other side of the blade, which allows you to flip the jig around and send the end that is normally rear facing through the saw first. Ok I get it the offset is one only one side of the blade so only the width of the kerf is exposed to the Infed stock. Most solutions I have seen use a straight board as a sled and have hold-downs so the piece you are cleaning up sits on the sled and hangs over the edge on the blade side.

It works for any board no matter how messed up the edge is. Once you have one edge straight, it is easy to ws up the other side and get parallel edges.

Running the board against the fence will cause the cut edge to shift if the board is longer than the fence, which causes both cut quality and safety concerns. Maybe a little less so since the jig has a longer in-feed and out-feed to it than the fence.

The method I described is no less dangerous Maybe less so than just ripping a board. Hi Tom. My apologies, I was referencing the wrong jig how to maintain good prostate health my previous response.

The jig that you are asking about works differently. You are essentially turning joimter table saw into a jointer with this jig. It supports the cut edge as it comes off the blade, holding the board perfectly straight on the outfeed side.

You need to start with a board that is pretty straight, and then you can perfect the straightness of the edge using this jig. W commonly use a straight edge to draw a line, then cut to that line using my bandsaw, then run it through the jointer. In this case you would substitute your table saw and this jig for the jointer. It would say that you will see the most noticeable advantage using this jig if you have a short stock fence on your table saw, and you extend that with this jig.

For a high end table saw with a longer fence, you might not notice as much advantage. This design is unique and mimics a bow jointer. It remains stationary and has infeed and outfeed sides that are on different planes. Can you explain why this method would provide better results? Ultimately either approach can produce the same result, which gow a flat and straight edge that can be used for glue-ups. I am new to woodworking tahle with no joiner i am sure this will help me turn out a better project.

The offset is so that you can use your joinyer saw just like a jointer which has off-set infeed and outfeed tables. Remember me. Lost your password? Privacy Policy. LOG IN. Search for:. Become A Member. Set the blade to the right height, slightly higher than the thickness of your material.

Cutting the offset Remove the jig from the rip fence and move the fence to the left side of the blade. Jointing Move the rip fence to the right side of the saw blade. Facebook Instagram Pinterest Youtube Twitter.

Instructions

Oct 10, In this video I will show you how I used a table saw to join boards for a table top I was building. I used a straight piece of molding as a guide along the. Nov 10, If you have limited space or funds make one tool into other tools. make a jointer jig for the tablesaw. diy woodshop project. Oct 27, Table Saw Jointer Step 1: Tools and Materials. Scrap Plywood or MDF Step 2: Cut Sled and Runner. Cut your sled to size. Mine measures 10 inches wide and 44 inches long. This isn't anything Step 3: Attach Runner. Place a few washers in the bottom of the .

Wood stock, particularly the stuff that passes for dimensional lumber at modern big-box home centers, isn't the most agreeable of products. It often reaches the shelves before it is fully dried and warps, cups, twists, or bows as it acclimates to the local climate. The problem is that jointers are rather pricey and bulkynot exactly suited to a small shop or working on location.

Quite simply, there are more versatile tools that are your first priority when putting together a woodworking shop. Build a simple table saw jointer jig that will give you the clean, straight edges necessary to do glue-ups and make other tight-fitting joints. You'll be making two slots in the 1 x 6, each about 1 inch in from the ends of the board, perpendicular to the board's long axis.

Set your router table's fence 1 inch away from the edge of the bit. These marks will denote the start and stop points of the slot. Start the router and ease the board down onto the bit, with the leading edge of the board at the far pencil mark.

Guide the board along the fence until the trailing edge of the board has met the trailing pencil mark. Lift the board off the bit, and repeat for the slot on the other side. At this point, you can flip the board over and make the first slot cuts on the opposite side of the board in the same manner. Continue this process until both slots are cut completely through the board.

Be cautious when pushing end grain against your router table's fence, as end grain can bind against the fence and cause kickbacks. Work slowly and methodically and consider dropping your router bit speed down a little bit to prevent burning. Each of the two hex bolts will go through these holes, then through the slots in the 1 x 6. This will allow the jig to be adjusted for jointing boards of various widths. Using your pencil, make a mark through the left end of the slots onto the plywood below.

Cut recesses in the plywood base so that the heads of the hex bolts can sit below the surface of the plywood.

Use your pencil to outline the flat edges of the bolt heads on the plywood. Now you can assemble the jig, using the plywood base, the slotted 1 x 6, and the bolts, washers, lock washers, and wing nuts. With the two hex bolts recessed into the lower base of the jointer jig, turn the base over and position the slotted 1 x 6 onto the bolts. Complete the assembly by adding a flat washer, then a lock washer and a wing nut to each bolt.

At this point, verify that the upper 1x 6 slides smoothly against the plywood base and that it can be securely held in any chosen position by tightening the wing nuts. With the quick-release toggle clamps attached to the upper portion of the table saw jointer jig, the next step is to adjust the clamps.

With a scrap piece of stock placed below the pads, adjust the clamp pads accordingly, using a pair of open-end wrenches. The pads of the clamps should be adjusted so that they securely hold a piece of 1 x stock 1 x 6, 1 x 8, etc. Rip a 5-foot-long strip of stock on your table saw, which will be attached to the bottom of the base and slide through the miter-gauge slot on the bed of your table saw. The idea is for the strip to glide smoothly through the slot with minimal play.

As you're facing the table saw, measure from the left side of your saw blade to the right edge of the left miter slot. Turn over the jig and measure in that distance from the right-hand side of the plywood base.

Using a straight edge, mark a parallel line at this distance along the right edge of the plywood. Drill pilot holes and countersink them to ensure the screw heads do not protrude past the face of the strip. With the table saw blade set below the bed of the saw, position the miter strip into the miter slot and verify that the jig glides smoothly across the entire length of the table with minimal side-to-side play.

Start the saw and trim the right-side edge of the jointer jig. Your table saw jointer jig is now complete. To use the jig, position the board you wish to square up into the jig, clamping it in place so the edge to be trimmed is just hanging over the right side.

You may need to adjust the wing nuts to widen or narrow the jig's clamps to accommodate boards of various widths. With the jig adjusted and the board clamped in the desired position, raise the blade to a height just above the surface of the stock, start the saw and trim the edge of the stock. You now have one perfectly straight edge.

As with any table saw operation, do not stand directly behind the blade, but off to the left side, just in case there is a kickback. To trim the opposite side of the stock to create a board that is perfectly square, remove the jig and simply use the table saw with the fence to rip the other edge of the board.

By running the jointed edge along the fence, you are guaranteed a perfectly square board. Keep in mind that this jig is suited for cutting boards up to 4 feet in length. For longer boards, make a jig with a longer base that can hold longer boards. Actively scan device characteristics for identification. Use precise geolocation data.

Select personalised content. Create a personalised content profile. Measure ad performance. Select basic ads. Create a personalised ads profile. Select personalised ads. Apply market research to generate audience insights. Measure content performance. Develop and improve products. List of Partners vendors. Warning Be cautious when pushing end grain against your router table's fence, as end grain can bind against the fence and cause kickbacks.

Tip The pads of the clamps should be adjusted so that they securely hold a piece of 1 x stock 1 x 6, 1 x 8, etc. Tip If you experience any side-to-side play, go back and make a slightly tighter miter strip. Warning As with any table saw operation, do not stand directly behind the blade, but off to the left side, just in case there is a kickback.

Tip Keep in mind that this jig is suited for cutting boards up to 4 feet in length. Show Full Article. Your Privacy Rights. To change or withdraw your consent choices for TheSpruceCrafts. At any time, you can update your settings through the "EU Privacy" link at the bottom of any page. These choices will be signaled globally to our partners and will not affect browsing data. We and our partners process data to: Actively scan device characteristics for identification. I Accept Show Purposes.

How to use a table saw as a jointer: 5 comments

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